Sunday, May 24, 2009

Eating in Hanoi...


Morning coffee at Hapro on Lake Hoan Kiem (see my cup on the right hand table in the foreground?)
You can sample deep fried sparrows, ox and horse meat, and catfish spring rolls at Highway 4. My companion Nancy and I were happy enough to simply sample the banana blossom salad and some shrimp and pork spring rolls...
Quan An Ngon features street foods served from simulated "street stalls"--you can order off their extensive menu or walk around the restaurant and point to what you want to try...
The "dessert bar" at Quon An Ngon features tapioca and bean treats and creations, as well as plenty of fresh fruit and fruit drinks.
Food stations at Sen Buffet Quoc Te at West Lake; an opportunity to try 200+ traditional Vietnamese and southeast Asian dishes for $10 total, including whole, salt and deep fried crabs, 1,000 year old eggs, Vietnamese hot pot, gorgeous chewy shrimp pastries, dozens of salads and chilled and marinated vegetables, and a large variety of traditional fruits and desserts.

One time when we all forgot our cameras and lived to regret it--dinner at Dinh Lang Thuy Ta Restaurant on Lake Hoan Kiem. For $14 each we had what was not an exceptional (but tasty none-the-less) six course traditional Vietnamese dinner, but the real highlight of the evening was Vietnamese folk music performed by a small orchestra composed of Vietnamese musical instruments, with performers in traditional clothing. 

Arts and Crafts in Vietnam...




Right down the street from our hotel in the Old Quarter was Phuong Thao Embroidery House, a lovely little shop that sold European style embroidered items. Vietnam is full of embroidery studios where dozens of women and youth sit for hours embroidering intricate landscape scenes of the rural countryside--works that frankly weren't much to my taste. I love European folk embroidery, however, and was surprised to find this store specializing in very high quality, hand embroidered table runners, table clothes, pillows, napkins and linen sets. Many of the designs are direct knock offs of old Swedish and Norwegian linen designs, and Bui Thi Thu Huong, the woman who owns and operates Phuong Thao Embroidery, has many clients from Australia,  Japan, Great Britain and the United States who collect and treasure Northern European linens and handwork, and purchase these fine Vietnamese linen imitations. The handwork is of exceptional quality, and the studio will do commissioned work.

Phuong Thao Embroidery House
3 Hang Be, Hanoi, Vietnam
email: huongembroidery@yahoo.com

Thursday, May 21, 2009

Some Memories of Vietnam

Perhaps the single most powerful reality any tourist to Vietnam gets hit with (not literally, we can only hope!) is the traffic--non-stop noise and movement, with no stop signs, no stop lights...just chaos, that somehow seems to work...

The beauty, and industrial horror (!) of Vietnam's countryside...



"Uncle Ho's" tomb, or the masoleum where Ho Chi Minh lies, open to the public most mornings...
Scenes from around Lake Hoan Kiem...






One of just dozens of exercise groups that appears every morning around 6 am at Lake Hoan Kiem to help people, especially women and the elderly, stay fit...and stay in touch with a supportive community...
A drizzling but still spectacular day out on Halong Bay...




Sightseeing Hanoi's various temples....



...and the cute kids who accosted me to practice their English.
The view from my "cyclo seat" (bicycle rickshaw) in the Old Quarter during rush hour...

My view from the boat traveling to the Perfume Pagoda...
...and every morning I sat and "processed the journey" over a cup of Vietnamese drip coffee at this little restaurant over looking Lake Hoan Kiem, just southwest of the Old Quarter where we were staying...

Monday, May 18, 2009

Back from Vietnam...with lots to share!














And who would all these bright and enthusiastic young people surrounding me be? Just some of my many English students from my two week teaching stint at the Foreign Trade University in Hanoi, Vietnam. 

I will be spending the next few weeks catching up on my blogging and filling you in on my adventures in Vietnam, which not only included teaching Vietnam's next generation of leadership, but lots of adventures with third world women artisans, arts and crafts groups and hot spots, and travel throughout the region. I will have tips on where to go and what to see for those of you who might be contemplating heading out to southeast Asia on a trip. (Go now!--travel in Vietnam at this point is still relatively cheap, fairly comfortable, and Vietnam is still at the point of being an emerging nation with all the cultural richness and difference  indicative of that developmental point in their history! Don't miss seeing it!) 

For the rest of you, there'll be plenty of information on the crafts scene in Hanoi, as well as some exciting opportunities to watch some nascent craft cooperatives and women's groups get off the ground...perhaps with YOUR help. So give me another day or two to get over my jet lag, and then tune in...I promise to have some good reading, and great information, for all of you!

Friday, April 17, 2009

Why Am I Going to Vietnam?

In less than two weeks I'll be in Hanoi, Vietnam. I'll be teaching English at the Technical College in Hanoi, and also looking up Vu and Tawny, two Vietnamese-Americans working in Hanoi with Maryknoll trying to develop some crafts projects that would help individuals that they're working with--the physically disabled, unwed mothers and street children among them--perhaps earn some income. I will only be in Hanoi two weeks, and am planning on going out to Halong Bay on a boating excursion for one of the two weekends I'll be in the country. 

Why am I going to Vietnam? Well, this year Stephen's going to Ireland while I'm in Vietnam. Every other year I try and let him return home without me, because he has a very different kind of trip when I'm not along--one that's more focused on visiting old friends and family, and less focused on running his wife around Ireland. Still, I think Stephen would be happy if I were joining him and, although he's very supportive of me going off to Vietnam, he's also a bit sad about it and a little bit concerned--will I be safe? Will I want to keep popping on planes and heading back to Asia every couple of years? I just don't know and neither does he, but I'm very grateful that he's willing to go along with it all...

When I was twelve my dad moved us all to Busan, South Korea, where he was an engineer for a Korean company and I attended American high school even though we lived "on the economy", which meant out with the Koreans and not on a military base, although we did live in our own little expatriate enclave. Living in Korea did something to me. First of all, when I returned to the States at fourteen, I never quite fit in. Lots of my friends in high school wound up being other kids from other countries and cultures rather than the dominant culture. In college I went on to study Japanese and got an Asia studies degree, and later spent some time in Japan trying, unsuccessfully, to be a nanny to a wealthy family in Sapporo (another story for another time). 

Ultimately, I put my Asian studies degree aside and wound up running an arts and crafts supplies store, later heading into more of a life of service, becoming a campus minister taking the students to Guatemala, Haiti, Israel, Native American reservations, Appalachia--all kinds of immersion experiences. I lived in Detroit for a while, where I worked at an historically Black college, and then in Chicago,where I lived in the very diverse--and also very Korean at that time--neighborhood of Ravenswood. I loved the differences I encountered in the people I lived and worked with.

In some ways I just can't get the whole Korean thing out of my system--I drag poor Stephen to any assortment of Korean restaurants (he has come to love hot stone bowl bi bim bap)  and have tried to hook him on Korean films and soap operas (unsuccessfully). And I guess, as I am approaching "the big 5-0" I feel myself wanting to get back to Asia at least one more time; this time, I hope, to do some good in a manner in which I was not able to as a teenager, or a recent college graduate. I want to contribute, however minutely, to some healing between Vietnam and my own country. I want to help their young people gain the skills necessary to live lives that are enjoyable, productive and fairly compensated. I want to learn about a new Asia culture while revisiting values and world views that aren't so unfamiliar, after years of study and interest. And, finally, I want to use my artistic skills to perhaps effect some good. 

I leave for Vietnam April 30th. I will keep you all posted on what I find there, and in the interim, ask for your support and prayers as I embark upon this adventure...

Thursday, April 16, 2009

You Can't Save the World Every Day...Sometimes, Girls Just Wanna Have Fun...
















Annie O Boutique


Consider adding a lovely embroidered belt or a handmade clutch to your wardrobe this spring. "Annie O." Waterman was traveling in the highlands of Peru when she happened upon three sisters who had developed an artisan's cooperative that supports women who are victims of domestic violence. Annie works with the women to provide a "win win" situation involving fair trade marketing of their products.  












Visit the web site www.annieoboutique.com, and take a look at Annie's blog at annieoupdate.blogspot.com.